As Chinese consumers greatly influence the high-end watch market, renown-watch brands present Chinese faces one after another to attract Chinese consumers. It seems that Chinese style watch has become one of the development trends of international wristwatch fashion. In recent years, either traditional color enamel, classic Chinese subjects or more modern designs are often applied to attract Chinese watch lovers.
Piaget Dancer Chinese Zodiac is the best example. This series draws inspiration from Chinese traditional chronology and includes twelve models: Rat, Ox, Tiger, Rabbit, Dragon, Snake, Horse, Goat, Monkey, Rooster, Dog and Pig. The bezel is set with 36 round exquisite-cutting diamonds while the lifelike animal, hosting the black agate dial, is embedded with diamonds and adorned with rubies. Every animal image is full of sensitivities. Meanwhile Piaget Dancer Chinese Zodiac adopts Piaget 430P ultra-thin manual winding mechanical movement, making it has greater collecting value. And it is true that not a few of collectors brought a set of Piaget Dancer as collection. Take a closer look and you will find that the shape of animals and the clouds, actually, reveals western styles. However, Chinese still can recognize that they are Chinese Zodiac signs. Apparently, Chinese style not only comes for Chinese consumers but also for all watch lovers in the world. And this is why Chinese style can become a new trend around the world.
As early as 2006, Jaeger-LeCoultre invited the most excellent enamel painting master Millos Merczel to apply traditional Chinese zodiac signs on its celebrated Reverso. Besides, it specially designed an active dial that could open and close, making the time display as colourful as a drama. In fact, these designs are simple compared with those appeared in 100 years ago. From the late of Ming Dynasty to the entire Qing dynasty, the main watch-making and enamel-making countries like Switzerland, France and Britain regarded China as a big market and specially produced products that met Chinese taste. These watches featured gold and pearl decoration and enamel scenes which were mainly flowers, western beauties and characters wearing Qing clothes. As the enamel-making techniques once faced extinction, there were some earnest Chinese watch collectors. And Sandberg Knight, the chairman of Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Corporation, was the most celebrated one among those collectors. Every enamel watch and jewelry he collected was masterpiece.Now, It is estimated that the big enamel collectors in Europe and Asia has amounted to several hundreds. Supported by big customers, the prices of ancient enamel watches and jewelry kept soaring. Between 1997 and 1998, you could get a well-kept ancient enamel watch from renown factory at a cost about 60,000RMB. The prices exceeded 120,000 RMB between 2000 and 2001. Now the prices rise to above 300,000 RMB. It is surprising that there is no signs that enamel products may get weak after long term rise. On quite a reverse, a series of masterpieces that have been hold by collectors for years appear in auction market and fetch high prices. Many people, under this situation, turn to the newly-made enamel watches from well-known brands. And that is the reason behind renaissance of enamel techniques in recent years.
Speaking about Chinese elements, European may first think of dragon. In 2000, Chinese year of Dragon, Switzerland watch factories, from Vacheron Constantin, Tudor to Hublot, launched dragon watches one after another. These dragon watches sported nice decorations, complex movements, and exquisite enamel, very attractive. Recently, I saw the dragon watch launched by Cartier in 2000: the dragon emerges between clouds and sea on the dial, highly decorative. On 2006 watch exhibition, there showed two dragon watches. One was the Star special edition from Pano Matic of Glashutte Original: on the red dial, the golden dragon head, diamond body, and the inverted "8" work perfect with watch functions. Another one was produced by the small factor JeanRochard: it features gorgeous colors. The golden dragon with diamond decoration represents Asian. The dragon looks a little like lizard, adding a kind of modern feeling. Last year, independent watch-maker Peter Speake-Marin from Britain Essex launched Dragon Phoenix Couple. Japanese Artist Yamazaki Mushu made the dial of Eternal Phoenix stand out using the Maki-e technique: mix paint with gold and fix the shape after cooling. There are several layers. You have to wait till the first layer is dry and then treat the next layer. The splendid visual effect is not second to that of enamel. Geneva sculptor Kees Englebarts designed the dragon figure: Two dragons are fighting on the dial, very impressive.
Panda is another figure that represents China. More than a decade ago, Corum once selected Temple of Heaven golden coin and Panda golden coin made in China to make watches. Now, in the Shanghai Patek Philippe Specialty Shop located in East Nanjing Roal, we can see the Panda Table Clock which full of Chinese characteristic. It took about 9 month to complete this table clock worth up to 900,000 RMB.The lifelike panda, baked by colored enamel technique, matches with hand-curved metal flowers, revealing the excellent craftsmanship of Patek Philippe. In addition, Cartier released a enamel panda watch in 2006. This panda watch features enamel decorations that continues to the end piece and large-area diamond inlay, full of design sense and avant-garde feeling.
More than one century ago, over-sea made wristwatches occupied Chinese market. Those oversea factories, in order to attract Chinese buyers, tried their best to add Chinese style even on basic and simple watch models. Collectors who often visit ancient watch shops know that it is very easy to find Chinese characters or trademarks on hundred-year-old pocket watches made by Switzerland, France or Britain. Now, they have been added to the collection of watch lovers. To appeal modern Chinese buyers, more and more watch factories launches new Chinese style watches. Chinese elements keep display the charm of Chinese culture in watch fashion world.
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